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 A river journey to Chicago from Kansas City and back, a distance of about 1440 miles, is something of an undertaking. In a car, I guess you’d just go—but we restored a 1958 23-foot aluminum boat this year and decided to take it on a long trip. This is the fifth boat Scott and I have rescued from a junkyard and that’s counting a large raft construction (see Yankton Trip). We left on a day that reached 109 degrees F and the next three days were also similar in temperature. This added to the sense of adventure and daring. We left after work on Friday the 22 of July, launching at Kaw Point just west of downtown Kansas City. Our plan was to travel at night down the Missouri River—the darkness also adds to a sensation of approaching peril. I think that’s everything—we also took Scott’s Grandfather, Cy who is a young 77 years and our friend Carl Whitcomb, 66 along as crew. They are both avid boaters and wanted to take such a trip for a long time.  After new paint  New motors and outfitted on top The boat has an aluminum cabin with two forward berths and a galley sink and counter top on one side and a water closet on the other side, which we use simply as a closet. When we are underway, there is a nice breeze coming through the side windows and a front hatch, which we made. Just behind the cabin is a raised platform that we fashioned into what we call the helm or bridge. Then the rest of the open cockpit area has a bench seat across the back. Behind that is a large open well just in front of the twin Honda outboard motors. This area hold batteries, cables and cleaning gear. We constructed an awning that covers the helm and cockpit area, which was not original to the boat. Its purpose was to provide cover from the sun and rain; we would need a defense for both on this trip. On the bow we installed a spotlight for the trip because of night travel on the rivers. We had two 25-gallon fuel tanks, one for each engine. We used a new Hummingbird depthfinder with GPS and mapping features. This was a great help to us.  Friday July 22nd As usual, I had been working on preparations up to the last minute but finally we were on the water and would have to sort things out with what we had aboard. We had lots of food and water stuffed into every hole. The first few hours we made good time, this was really my first time on the boat after building it all year. I was getting an idea of design weaknesses and strengths. I was finding out what looked good in a static setting is not always ideal when the boat is in its element. Overa ll, I was pleased with how the boat handled, although the wheel has a hard pull to the right from the torque of the two motors. It was very warm in the boat, but the other three men were not complainers and that made for pleasant problem solving attitudes. It was clear that all of us wanted to go on this trip and were going to make it work. Pretty remarkable to have such harmony between four men in 432 square feet.  We were traveling about 23 miles an hour, with 4 hours of light before darkness set in on the river. We were some past Waverly, MO when we slowed and began using our lights. A full moon was due but did not come up for a few hours. We were looking for logs and channel buoys with the light at a speed of 10-12 MPH. About 10 o’clock, Cy and Carl retired to the cabin and fell asleep, Scott was driving and I was up with him trying to see in the darkness. Keeping straight in the channel and avoiding other floating stuff is enough to keep you awake. The night passed slowly, early in the morning we were passing Glasgow. We had intentions of pulling in to get gas, they also have showers in the riverside park. But our fuel was good, and decided to push on for Cooper’s landing.  We finally made Cooper’s about 9 in the morning. We took time to get breakfast and a $2 shower. Steamy hot weather but the shower revived us and we felt pretty good for being awake all night. Full tanks and we were off to the next stop at Soda Popps on the Osage River. At cruising speed of 45 RPM we were getting 8 MPG from each motor, giving us mileage of about 4 MPG. This would remain the normal consumption for the rest of the trip. No problems to reach the next fuel stop, although closed fuel docks made some inconveniences when planning our stops. Saturday July 23rd This day we were going to finish the last half of the Missouri River. We were traveling at our highest cruising speed of 23 MPH. The current of the river was reading about 4 MPH on the GPS, which gave us our best speed of the trip. The last of this day's 180 miles would be accomplished well before the sun set and we planned to stop for the night at the Alton Marina. When ever we talk to people or we read what they have written about the Missouri River, it always begins with apprehension about traveling this river. The subject of wing dikes are mentioned and the boiling whirlpools are considered alarming to boaters who travel on other rivers. This has been surprising to us, I guess because we began our love of rivers on the Missouri. We’ve learned her moods and changes during each season. It can rise several feet over night; it can drop that much. The wing dikes are rock, made to channelize the river for barges by the US Army Corps of Engineers. You can “read” the river; there is a pattern to where the wings are placed. The ripple line on the surface of the water shows the rock position under the high water, and in low water it is hard not to miss the rock walls. Boils are always blooming up and can cause the boat to swerve abruptly, but you can usually see them ahead. A little finesse at the wheel can avoid going through these disturbances and pick a smooth path through the water. The deep channel (usually 12-17 feet) is clearly marked by the red and green buoys, which makes it a safe route even at night. We find one of the greatest differences between the Missouri and other rivers is the complete lack of development along its shores. Except for the occasional powerplant, it is almost all wilderness. Oh, there is also no gas available, save two notable exceptions. Cooper’s Landing near Providence and Soda Popp’s two miles up the Osage River. Other than that, the walk for gas can be long, very long.  St Charles Ramp on the Missouri River Well, on this afternoon, we are setting a course for the mouth of the Missouri River above Saint Louis. Scott and I have passed this way a number of times and are anxious to start up the Illinois River so we can see some new sights. It has been a hot day and as we pass Saint Charles, the scenes are all new for Carl and Cy. Carl has made the trip twice with us on the Youth Excursions and Cy made this trip once, but now we were on new water for them and there was much to see and more barge activity.  Large tow in dry dock, note the ducted prop and rudder under the stern  Without any fanfare, we entered the Mississippi River and Scott turns upstream. We pass some heavy industrial shipping piers loaded with commercial Towboats. And not long afterward we come to the Lock below the town of Alton. This is one of the largest locks on the Mississippi, we pass through the small lock on the right that is used for smaller “pleasure crafts” or PCs as they are called on the radio. Takes us about 40 minutes, then we motor up to the gas dock at the Alton Marina. We fill our tanks and find out we can rent a transit slip, which includes showers and pool privileges. There was also a casino not far that had a great buffet. What should we do first, we wondered? I headed to the bathroom. It was about 99 degrees at 7PM. But the showers had A/C and it was turned up high. I loved it. There were even soap and shampoo dispensers in the shower. They also had some kind of European body scrub but the idea didn’t appeal to me. There were towels provided and individual rooms with doors.There were glass mirrors you could actually shave in and my own toilet with big rolls of paper. I could have spent my whole vacation in there. After the four of us were cleaned up, we looked pretty good. We headed up to the parking lot to catch the shuttle to the Argosy Casino. It is a combination of boats that form a floating restaurant and gaming rooms. We walked in and immediately the guard asked Scott for his ID . . . I was astonished. I was getting mine out when the guard said he didn’t need to see mine or Carl’s. I looked at Scott with a “what’s up with that” look, which only got an amused smile back. Evidently, next to Cy, Carl, and me—our friend Scott looked like a minor. Huh . . . anyway, the food was really something. The stewed tomatoes, I went back three times. The beef and chicken were slathered in sauce, potatoes were just the way I like them, the veggies were of everykind, and the shrimps—well the shrimps! There were salmon cakes, and soft rice with beef and peppers, there was a crusty brown meat-like thing I couldn’t get enough of. The prime rib was so juicy and steaming. And the A/C was cranked up high. Oh, we were feeling great, and ice water to boot. Then we started in on the desert table. We finished up and started back for the boat. Started bedding down, the others took up their places aboard. I set up a mosquito net on the dock and slept on a bundle of towels. It was hot but I was in REM sleep. Scott said he didn’t sleep, and wandered over to the showers once or twice. Sunday July 24th Awoke, untied, shoved off at 6AM, still darkish. Headed due north, it was just getting light but very warm. We pulled away from the marina at Alton just as a fishing tournament was getting started. Bass boats were speeding away from the ramp in all directions. We rounded the rock wall under the Alton Bridge and headed toward the mouth of the Illinois River near Grafton. Our depthfinder was showing hugh numbers with fish symbols under our boat as we past the rock wall. I wondered why the fishermen all sped down to the dam.  We had experienced a problem the day before and I was still trying to solve it in my mind. One of the Hondas was not charging its battery and the gauge was reading only 12 volts. As it would run, the voltage would steadily drop during the day to around 11volts. We decided to switch batteries, let the weak engine run on a fresh charge. The new Honda was charging around 14 volts, and restored the low battery. So before leaving each morning, I switched batteries connections. We built the boat as two separate power systems. Starboard outboard had its own fuel tank, filter, battery, binnacle control, switch and gauges. The port outboard had its own equipment too. We felt this was a reliability measure to insure at least some mode of power in the event of a failure. If you depend on a machine, you have to have a backup plan. This was the first boat we’ve built with two completely independent propulsion systems. The odd thing was, when a problem did come I was still feeling alarm for the equipment failures. I think it goes back to my growing up years. An aside about why Russ is so uptight about fixing stuff Our family could not afford too many comforts. Among those things we did without was a new car. Our cars were just working, and breakdowns were common. Some of my first dating experiences were of picking up a girl, taking her to an activity and then seeing the car’s dash lights come on, smoke pouring from underneath, and finally having to call my dad to come and get us. I finally stopped going on dates until I got my own car, which was an older used car, and then it brokedown with the same regularity as our family's. I’m sure I’ve been scared. Even now when I take a trip, I still take tools, tape, fuses, wire and assorted nuts and bolts. A habit that must seem absurd to my children who have never had a car that breaks down. The rest of the guys were enjoying the morning and the sights along the banks, ferries crossing over, towns, islands, and interesting watercraft. I was watching the voltage gauge . . . . with dread that at any moment it would twitch, catch fire and smoke would pour from underneath the boat. The day wore on, the needle stayed just above 12 and the engines were purring.  North on the Illinois River I was noticing a difference in the river. The Illinois was very mild in its current, the water was green and clear and there were numerous banks and islands for breaks and camping. It seemed to be so different from riding on the Missouri. I mentioned this to Mansker and we discussed the pros and cons of both for a while. It sure was nice, no boils or whirlpools, just mild clean water. We stopped later for breakfast at a town listed in Quimby’s that said it had a restaurant near a long dock. It was a yellow, well-tended dock and there was a restaurant about 100 yards from the water. They had just opened and we had a fine breakfast, it was now about 9:30 am and we were headed to our first lock and dam.   We were wondering if there would be long waits. The wait was long, little over two hours seemed to be the norm. It takes a little while for a crew to learn how to work together in locking, docking, marina manners, and how to land or depart the boat. On the Missouri, not too much practice doing that sort of thing—we just travel. Now, every hour or so we’re pulling alongside, putting bumpers out, tie-off or holding ropes. We were trying to figure who goes forward, who takes the controls, and who fends off the walls. Seems a simple task, but when everyone tries to help, it becomes comical to an on-looker. It took us about two days to settle in a routine, but once we got the system working, it worked pretty well. Everyone knew his job. This day would end in Peoria, a very hot day.  We bought lots ice at the restaurant and just laid the bags on the floor of the boat. Maybe it helped, maybe it didn’t. I put my feet on one bag—as long as I could stand it, just to keep one part of me cool. The rest of me waited its turn. Wet towels helped to keep the head cool. After waiting through more locks, we came to the big pool above Peoria. They have a nice downtown river center. But we were told by some people to go to the East Port Marina. Our expectations might have been a little high after Alton. We had to travel some distance across the bay in water that was only a couple of feet deep; there are buoys that mark the way. And as we pulled into the “no wake” zone behind and floating breakwater, we found the transient dock out at the end of a long floating pier. The wood planks were covered in seagull and duck dung. We walked up to rent a slip, couldn’t find anyone at the office. We learned that the marina restaurant would be closing soon, so we took showers and went up to eat. Good meal and we liked the view of the city at night. Started to feel human again, the afternoon had gotten pretty warm for everyone. Carl and Cy went back to the boat and turned in. Scott and I went up to the laundry room and started cleaning clothes. We called home and told every one about our adventures. In the laundry room we met a family that were traveling the Grand Loop on a 28-foot powerboat. Sounded like they were from Britain. They asked about the Missouri and fuel access. Got back to the boat, too hot inside so I slept on the dock again and so did Carl. I never felt a thing till the morning birds started singing. Monday July 25th At 6:00 I switched batteries and we pulled out of the marina and set our course hoping to reach Joliet by the end of this day. It was a cooler morning and Carl and Cy were cooking breakfast as Scott and I piloted the boat. Pancakes and eggs were handed up to us through the hatchway. It smelled great and filled us. After cleaning up the boat we got to the business end of our trip which included lockages and finding gas. We started getting a different feel while talking to people along the way. Weren’t sure but it seemed like responses were becoming more abrupt. We let it go and continued having fun with the new Hummingbird GPS, which was telling us almost everything about the trip including what time it was.  Along the way, we met another lonestar owner and spent an hour sharing stories. His name was Dale Lesak and he invited a newspaper reporter to listen to our story and take some pictures.  Dale Lesak's restored Lonestar, 'The Day Away' Running twin outboards provides some interesting twists to boating. First of all, there is a certain RPM that each engine must run to avoid a nerve numbing drone. Something like grrrong-grrrong-grrrong, if you don’t get the setting on the throttles right. If the throttle stop slips on one motor, you are always trying to reset the speed. But by far the most fun is using the two motors to maneuver. Leaving the engines at idle speed and pointed straight, shifting one to forward and the other to reverse allows you to pivot the boat one way or the other. It is very neat in a tight spot.  Carl fishing while waiting for the Lock to open The last lock of the day and we would be up to the Joliet area and a large marina, we needed gas, showers, sleep, and food. The miter doors of the lock opened and we pulled forward, this marina rated 4 stars and had a full spread page in Quimby’s. It was only a few miles on the right. We pulled up about 5:30 but no one was at the gas dock. Scott walked up to the buildings and was talking to a guy in a golf cart. When I got up there the guy was telling Scott that his gasdock was closed, there was no restaurant open, the pool wasn’t open, and the laundry wasn't open. He said the slip fee would give us a place on the end and bathrooms. Scott asked about other services further up the river. The guy said we were showing up during an “off time.” The weekend was when they were staffed and ready for boaters. He couldn't be expected to have someone sitting there all day just waiting for us to show up on a Monday! I asked what does the money get us if there were no fuel, no services, and no pool? He said, “it gets you Slippage.” Yea, we were feeling that! He continued to explained that they just had a storm and it caused his pool chemicals to mix and become some sort of problem. I guess he thought we wouldn't understand chlorine. We said no thanks and were turning to leave when he asked if we were going up to Chicago. He offered that we had better call ahead, “those people won’t treat you very well if you don’t call first.” We were starting to believe him—. We took the stars off our Quimby’s notes for this marina. We did call and found someone who answered the phone at Big Basin Marina. They had a slip, showers open all night, and restaurant. The owner told us where they were (the mile mark in Quimby’s is an error). I pulled in; a tight fit, but mannaged. We met the owner, and he opened his gas pump. We filled our tanks for the push to Chicago the next day. He gave us the large dock located next to the bathhouse. It was a little run down, but any port in the storm can be just fine. We pulled out all our gear to organize and discard some of the trash that had built up. It was threatening rain, I set up our tent and we secured the boat and our belongings against a possible downpour during the night. A Second Side Note I was told by Scott after the trip that as I sat on the dock washing our supply of water bottles with Windex, that Carl and Cy came back from showers and had seen me. They thought maybe there was some problem with Russ . . . "Why is he washing the sealed bottles of water?" I didn't know that they had noticed. But thinking back on it--It must have looked strange. Although at the time I thought it was perfectly normal. I went up to take a long shower. Came back and the guys had cooked a great meal which we ate in the dark. Turned in, no rain, but woke up about 3 and went out to sit at the table. Scott was up and we just talked about the trip. Went back and slept for a few hours. Tuesday July 26th Left about 6:30 to arrive at our first lock and dam called Brandon Road. We called the lockmaster who told us we’d have to wait; he’d get back to us. We waited; I mentioned the abruptness issue again. The lockmaster came back to explain that he didn’t have enough water to fill the lock and we’d have to wait. We naturally questioned his explanation: he was sitting on a dam, the lock fills from the upstream pool caused by the dam, and he didn’t have enough water to fill the lock. Seemed dubious to us, but we gave him the benefit of the doubt. Maybe the same storm that messed up the pool chemicals at the marina, also sucked up the water out of the river, could happen . . . So Carl fished and caught some lunch for us.  Eventually the lock opened and we were invited to lock through and ended up not being as long as we were first told. Up on top, we could see that the lockmaster had his hands full. A bridge not far from the lock was being repaired. Barge traffic was pilling up and in fact, the water to fill the channel had to be released from the next dam to keep the lock working. We were new here and didn’t understand all that was happening. Actually, as I was driving past this inoperable drawbridge, thinking I was moving at a politely lowered speed when Scott pointed in the water to a diver in the water hanging on to the bridge piling. But then it was too late and our wake gave him some trouble. We entered the river channel that goes through downtown Joliet. This is where the yelling started. We were passing one of the drawbridges when a man leaned out the window and yelled, “Do you have a radio? Are you on 16? Can’t you hear the guy talking to you? This is a no-wake zone all the waythrough the city.” We slowed to no-wake, which is about 5 MPH and finished the city expecting to be yelled at any moment. We got up to a tall dam with large lock doors. There was a sizeable pleasure boat ahead that seemed to be new to locking. The lockmaster had to instruct him several times. Just more of the yelling, I dismissed it. Maybe the style here is to yell first than help you later. This was a long wait, it took over 40 minutes to fill the lock and about as many to empty. We were there over two hours. This was our last one and now headed up the ship and sanitary canal to downtown Chicago. This is where the real yelling began. Scott got caught between two barges in the narrow canal. The captain of one told him to enter a holding section to let them pass. The next captain began blowing his horn to get out of the way. Some workers on a barge tied to the wall motioned us over behind them. We clung to the rock wall as the large tows churned the water into waves. We learned that the “no-wake sign” means visitors must submit to yelling and jokes by the dockhands. But working tows can wash visiting pleasure craft from side to side with impunity. A very troublesome place and one we would not recommend to anyone. Now we are convinced that the closer we got to Chicago the more abrupt and callous the treatment. After escaping the Ship & Sanitary Canal, we began to see the scenes of downtown Chicago.  The Sears Tower in the clouds of an approaching storm was our first sense of having made it. The water here was very green and clear.The constructions were old and historical along the river. Bridges were an art form here and some decorated most elaborately.  Downtown, the bridges had large house constructions for the bridge master who opened the massive drawbridges. In the heart of the city now, we could see water traffic in the form of tour boats, water taxis and the like. There was a downtown marina with boats tucked away in structures that looked like WWII submarine pens for German U-boats.  The AM-TRAK station looked like it was in the river with only a wall between the train and us. All of a sudden we were at the lock next to the Navy Pier, which opened on to Lake Michigan. The small-craft-warning was out and the wind was picking up. It looked dark as the storm was setting down on the city. We wanted to reach the waters of the lake, but felt that once getting on the other side of the lock, conditions might make it very dangerous in the waves while waiting to lockback through to the river. We were feet from the great lake and that was enough—we had a long way yet to reach home.  We motored back to a marina we saw that offered gas. We were driving with no wake, but we were the only ones. After tying off at the gas dock, we filled the tanks and left the boat there to go get some food at their snack shop. Hamburgers were good with soft drinks. And we anticipated the longnight back to Big Basin, the Ship Canal, endless “no-wake zones” and the Locks. It had taken us 9 hours to reach the city, figured it might be the same returning. We took our time eating. Finally underway, it began to rain. It was raining hard. We were buttoned up as best we could but the water was pouring into the boat. The two bilge pumps we built into the boat served us well that night. We made it throughthe Ship Canal at a better speed. It was after work hours and we didn’t see anyone except two tows racing to get back. Their wake was huge and difficult in passing. We finally traveled at speed back to the first lock. We got right in and started learning a routine for locking down. It was dark as the rain was letting up.  We came through Joliet with the city lights showing our way. Brandon Road was next, and we got through in good time there, we thanked the lock hand who offered us a rope. We were headed for the Big Basin Marina and safety from the storm.  Raining again, all hands were looking into the dark, we were using every light the boat had. The drill of raindrops flattened the surface of the water out. Little wisps of mist were coming off the 88-degree water with the air temperature in the 60s and fog was possible. We were running at full speed. Rain coats on, we were still a little chilled. Scott turned on our Coleman lantern inside the cabin and it warmed up considerably. At last, we pulled into the marina about 11:00 and found our slip right next to the picnic table. We tied off, and went to sleep. Raining, everything in the boat was wet except the cabin. Wednesday 27th We were off at 6:30 AM and beginning our trip back to Kansas City. There was some excitement to be going home. Rain was threatening but held off in the morning. On the way back to KC, we stopped at Hidden Cove Marina, it had recently rained. Scott went up and got someone with the key to the gas pump. The guy was talking to Scott as they came down the stairs, he said he wouldn’t pump gas for us or something like that, I thought he was just kidding around. As the attendant started to fill our port fuel tank, I cautioned that if he filled too fast it would overflow out of the filler neck (and spill into the boat). He didn’t slow down, said he was going to stop filling if it started raining because their insurance wouldn’t cover the risk of fire . . . when it was raining? It would be our hard luck if we didn’t get all the fuel we needed. Said he, “didn’t care if we got fuel or not, I don’t work here anymore. I got my notice they are selling the place and I’m out of a job. I’m just hanging around to help because that’s the kind of guy I am. We pump 91octane—good gas, it is specially suited for boat engines. Anything less than 91 is watered down, that’s what all these other marinas do, water itdown. Bad for boat engines.” Carl said under his breath, “water the gas down?” We took over the job of filling the tanks, and luckily it didn’t rain before getting all we needed. Went up to pay the bill, and get something to eat. I wanted some milk, but no luck. Our gas attendant asked if we wanted something to eat. They could fix it up for us on the grill. We used the restroom, and decided to pass on eating there. We didn’t get the attendant’s name, but our story telling over the next 200 miles demanded one, so I called him ‘Charlie, Charlie Octane.’  Old Henry Lock Reached Peoria’s East Port about dusk and parked on the outer break water next to the ramp. Walked up and got showers but we cooked dinner on the boat. Thursday 28th Reached Alton Marina, got fuel but went on toward the lock. It took about an hour to lock through, we were now headed for the Missouri River and pulled around the corner just before dark. We traveled on and anchored on “3.5 mile” island, a sand bar about 4 miles from the mouth. Carl didn’t catch fish that night but we ate hardily from the ship’s galley box.  The mouth of the Missouri River Friday 29th Awoke leisurely. Packed up the boat, shoved off with our next stop at SodaPopp’s gas dock. Later on that day it is warming up again. Pick up some food at a local store across the river from Soda’s. Reach Cooper’s a few hours later and took on the last of our fuel. We filled the two spare cans as well for a total of 60 gallons. Making our way up river through the night. Pulled to a sand bar about 4 am. Saturday 30th Woke up along the shore beyond the bridge at Glasgow. Scott was at the helm and we were on our last leg. After getting a few things organized, I changed clothes, washed my hair in a bucket and shaved while sitting on the back seat. I felt refreshed from the night’s passage and waiting to see thef amiliar towns as we got closer to Kaw Point. About 2:30 we came under the Broadway Bridge and lined up with the ramp at Kaw Point. Just like that, it was over. We had traveled from KC to Chicago on three river systems and back. We’d done it in mid-July in a boat we had built this year. If we hadn’t of taken so many other similar journeys, this would have been the trip of a life-time. Something to tell the grandkids. We loaded out, traveled back to Olathe, dropped Carl and Cy off. Took the boat back to the RV center, and secured her in her storage spot. Scott dropped me off at home and a welcomed shower. I looked at the video tape of the trip that night, I missed it already.  |
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